ELECTRICALLY-POWERED SUBMARINES
Electrical toy submarines are the most recent stage in the evolution of these toys prior to radio-guidance. They appeared in the early 60s, and are still being produced nowadays. There are three types:
- On-board batteries;
- Wire-guided, the batteries being in the command box;
- External engines in a streamlined container, clipped under the hull.
Electrical submarines, originally, are the same as mechanical subs as far as propulsion is concerned; only the spring-powered engine is replaced by a battery engine. One of the earliest, around 1958, is this Japanese Nautilus 571 from Marusan, number 3322 (catalogue number ?).
The tower is removable to install the batteries. There are two contacts at the rear: once in the water, the sub starts. There are recurring waterproofing problems. Varnished sheet metal, 16”.
J ***
This submersible is a German Schuco from the late 60s, in lithographed sheet metal and plastic.
The engine block and the battery slot are located under the sub, the bottom hull of which is in plastic and can be removed to load the batteries and launch the propulsion. 13”; Ballast at the top of the tower.
G ***
Of spanish make, in plastic, this Ranetta Atomico is typical from the 70s. The batteries are loaded at the bow, thanks to two clips that are then positioned along the hull. Buoyancy is... rather limited !
Beware to carefully grease the toric seal, else water gets in... and the toy sinks! Length: 16”.
I *
This Roman 5201 in plastic is also a Spanish design, to be found nowadays in sea-side shops. Same workings as the Ranetta, 17”;
Limited buoyancy...
S *
Now here is the star of battery-powered submarines: it is a Gil, the S 63, built in the 60s and 70s.
As far as I know, this is the biggest electrical toy submarine, mass-produced according to the rules of ship-building: steel hull soldered to a frame. Dives can be continuous or alternate. Contact is via one of the periscopes, and the electronic timer can be set via the second one. The top of the bridge can be unscrewed, a second waterproof lid is set underneath this bridge. 34”; this specimen (my bro’s!) dates from 1966. Frequent, but easy to repair contact problems. No ballast: once the batteries are set (under the second lid) buoyancy remains very positive. The power of the engine, that allows high speeds, and the action of electronically-set bars are what makes the beast dive! In continuous mode, the timer slows the engine and the submarine “surfaces” after a few minutes. An S63 model reached a depth of 40’ AT SEA and surfaced without one drop of water inside; few models, even radio-guided ones, can claim such performance!
F ***** in this state.
This Japanese submarine is a rarity: it is one of the very first battery-powered subs. It dates from the early 50s, maybe even the late 40s, given the materials used: willow-wood and tin.
Length: 16”
J, *****
Here is a true marvel of reliability, precision and finish! It is a reproduction of the U35, launched at Kiel in 1913; crafted by the Tucher & Walther shop from Nuremberg, this one bears n° 450 of 500, all entirely made by hand. It dates from the early 80s.
In painted and varnished steel, the battery contact is a small bar that goes into a waterproof hole located on the tower. 26” long, dynamic diving by setting bars.
D*****
Second category of electrically-powered toy submarines: wire-guided subs. They appeared around the late 60s and work according to a very simple principle:
1) The submersible contains an encapsulated and waterproof engine that works underwater. Floaters are integrated, as the toy works when full, so when immobile it must have a slightly positive buoyancy;
2) An electrical wire a few meters long links the engine to a command box with two setting: on/off. Said box also contains the batteries.
3) Use: after setting the diving bars, set the sub on and it dives under the hydrodynamic action of water of the bars. Range is limited by the wire’s length.
First example: this plastic German Delphin. Made by Anker Spielzeug, the box says “Made in GDR,” that is the late “Eastern Germany” (German Democratic Republic). Two manufacture numbers: 106/844. Estimated from the late 70s-early 80s. Length: 13”.
This “exploded” view shows the components found in all wire-guided subs: the encapsulated and waterproof engine, the wire and battery command box; the plastic floaters. The round switch on the box allows the user to vary the speed. On the collégiencm1-cm2 website, there is a report on this sub. (http://cm1cm2.ceyreste.free.fr/)
This Delphin works impeccably, and is very docile. Limited range because of the wire. Check that the batteries are placed correctly in the box. Put the forward bars in medium position and fill the toy with water: It dives slowly as soon as you turn the rheostat to forward position. Once stopped, it slowly emerges; in reverse, it emerges very fast. Be careful, the hull and deck features (cannon...) are fragile, but the mechanics are indestructible, pure socialist Germany product! There also exists a version exported to the former USSR, pink in color, estimated over 1200 euros (new in its box) so rare it is!
Note: this toy is a collector’s item from the late DDR, just as sweets, radio sets, Trabans, fake Coke... cf. the film the TV channel ARTE produced on the subject.
DDR **
This very beautiful Nautilus is a Japanese Linemar, the motto of which is “Best by far”. Very simple workings: on/off. No ballast; buoyancy is minimal, the toy dives under the action of the diving bars. One salient point: the transparent plastic tower that lights on.
Linemar was in fact the Japanese producer of Marx Toys, a US brand. The products were then re-exported to America: globalization, even then... Linemar means MarxLine. Despite its name, no relation to the preceding country, where another Marx used to be referred to!
Lithographed sheet metal and plastic; 14”; catalogue number J2063.
J ****
This R1 is the ‘Redoutable,” the last toy made by JEP in 1968 before the brand closed. Production was started again after Coqueval bought the equipment, including the specimen shown here. Entirely plastic, 21”, very fragile.
F **** (JEP), ** (Coqueval)
This magnificent Monteleone is Italian, from the late 70s, and a rarity in France; registered as n°750 on the tower, it is 26” long and entirely plastic.
It is the only toy submarine found at a garage sale (in Seine-et-Marne) for the colossal sum of... 25 euros ($33) !
I ****
Rarer still, this very big '215 Tiger' Monteleone, found through an ad:
It is 26" long, in plastic.
I*****
Here is a very beautiful functioning model that can be likened to a toy: a VIIC-type U-Boat produced by Academy, « minicraft » series:
A true showcase model, it does function, but is very fragile, thus requiring specific care. Japanese finish, that is to say - impeccable. Plastic, 18 inches.
J***.
Considering its limited performance (due to the length of the wire) and its fragility, the concept of wire-guided submarine had no future, the less so because it appeared at the time when traditional toys were evolving towards radio-guidance, and when prestigious brands (JEP...) were closing down. There is, however, one field where wire-guidance proved quite outstanding and efficient.... that of anti-tank missiles!
There remain the “submarines” with exterior engines set in streamlined waterproof tanks, with an LR6 battery, the whole being clipped under the hull. I put quotes because in that case, they are as familiar with marine depths as my great-grand-mother with the Stargate SG1 series. First appearing in the 80s, those funny thingies are sold in seaside shops. They are in plastic, all made in Asia – especially China. See the chapter “Building your own collection,” section “Rainy 2007 holidays – Treasure hunt.”
Here are a few samples of this prolific (and pervasive) family:
They are all between 13” and 14” long. Every year you can find the same models, but in different colours.
Packed in cardboard/plastic blisters, the advertising slogan mentioned: “dive and surface,” which is impossible as is, since:
1) The hull fills with water at the slightest wave... and the sub sinks.
2) The engine is not powerful enough for the diving bars (very symbolic ones) to act on the toy’s angle... It would sink anyway, never to surface again!
3) This being established, the ad on the blister changed... to avoid accusations of deception? Anyway it became “Water Action.” Elementary, my dear Watson!
All being said, those cheap Chinese subs are fun. And handy to explain Archimedes’ Principle to children. My advice: when you find them, buy them, store them in good condition – my collector’s instinct tells me those gadgets are going to be worth a lot more, some can already be found for 15 euros ($20) at toy collection fairs.
Those two were sold under a German brand, “PlayArt,” but “Made in Hong-Kong!”
They seem to benefit from much more serious manufacturing as their continental Chinese cousins, and date from the 90s, before Hong-Kong returned to the PRC: thanks to German rigour? There are real adjustable diving bars, the engines are properly waterproof, and there are ballasts inside... maybe they really do “dive and surface...”
This electrical submarine is a Balao, an approximate reproduction of the WWII American submarine of the same name. It is similar to the cheap Chinese mini-subs, but better: the engine is correctly encapsulated, the hull has better finish. Indeed, you can find this article in the souvenir shops of British maritime museums: Groton, Gosport, etc.
From the brand « Action Products International Inc. », made (it goes without saying) in China, it can really dive AND surface, if you are willing to tinker with it a bit. This was done by VXTOY who sold me this sub: some glue, PVC foam, paint, a few tests: It works! Here’s proof:
Plastic, length 13 inches.
US/UK made in China.
One last point to conclude: those small toys are THE archetype of the “What the .... are you doing in the bath, it’s time to put the kid to bed!!!” syndrome (cf. the section on bathtub subs).
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